Ride-free Theme Park, Puy Du Fou, Voted Best In The World
The theme park most have never even heard of, Puy du Fou, was voted best theme park but doesn’t have a single ride.
The Anti-Theme Park
If you’ve never heard of it, you’re in good company, I hadn’t until this week. Despite hosting millions of visitors annually and being named “Best Theme Park in the World” multiple times by industry insiders (THEA), Puy du Fou remains one of France’s best kept secrets. Perhaps, purposefully so, because calling it a “theme park” is a little bit of a misnomer in the context of US equivalents.
This is not Disney World. It’s not Universal. And it most definitely is not a parade of intellectual properties marching through overpriced churro stands and shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. Puy du Fou is immersive, it is theatrical, and it is unapologetically (and unquestionably) French. That may be why so few Americans (present company included), even those who pride themselves on being Europe-savvy, have not heard of it.
What is Puy du Fou?
Puy du Fou is a sprawling historical performance complex nestled in the quiet, countryside Vendée region of western France. There are no roller coasters. There are no costume characters taking selfies, no Harry Potter wand shop. Instead, what you’ll find are massive live-action spectacles, epic cinematic productions with hundreds of actors, trained animals, and pyrotechnics. Shows include medieval battles, Viking raids, 18th-century naval warfare, and Roman chariot races.
The cornerstone show, Cinéscénie, features over 2,500 actors on a stage the size of a small village. It’s performed entirely in French (of course it is), but I’m not sure that matters. According to reports, actors playing 14th-century knights ride out of flaming forests and an entire battlefield erupts with cannon fire and flying falcons. This is a history lesson wrapped in Cirque du Soleil and perfect for traveling families like mine that want to mix in a little education with spectacle while traveling.
The park isn’t about rides, it’s a story. Dozens of them, told in rotating fashion through 26 major productions and set within a park designed to feel like living history. The cobblestone paths, artisan shops, and period-specific taverns aren’t decorations. They are the stage.
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So why haven’t you heard of it? Part of that is purportedly intentional. Puy du Fou is designed with the French visitor in mind. Over 95% of its guests are domestic. The park doesn’t go out of its way to advertise internationally, and the performances remain in French, with English translation devices available (upon request.) International attention is welcome but not chased. That creates a paradox. This is appears to be an incredible alternative to the tourist traps often frequented, yet it’s flying under the radar for most travelers.
Getting There By Air, Rail, and Car
Puy du Fou is located near the small town of Les Epesses, about an hour’s drive from the city of Nantes (NTE), the closest major airport. Rail also connects to Paris, London, and a number of European hubs. From there, commenters online suggest renting a car is easiest. For travelers accustomed to the convenience of high-speed rail and well-mapped trails, this might feel like a bit of a side quest. But why not stray?
Where to Stay: On-site Or Off
The park has several themed accommodations: a French village longhouse, a Roman villa, a Renaissance château, or a 1900s Belle Époque train car. Prices vary widely depending on season and theme, ranging from about €100 to €350 per night. The alternative resorts (sold on the Puy Du Fou website) are 26-68km away. For those wanting more flexibility or lower prices, nearby towns like Cholet and Les Herbiers offer solid hotel and guesthouse options within a 20- to 30-minute drive.
The hotels are either two or three stars (at best) and not worth it for the money but there’s not a lot of options if you’re staying for the late show. I’d personally opt to drive all the way back to Nantes for the night over the hotels the park offers and the nearby alternatives.
When to Go and What It Costs
The park operates seasonally, from April through early November so unfortunately, I won’t be able to visit this fall when I return to Cannes. The must-see nighttime Cinéscénie show runs only on select evenings from June through September and requires a separate ticket; commenters online indicate these showings often sell-out.
Tickets to the park start around €37 for adults and €30 for children if booked in advance. Add the Cinéscénie and you’re looking at another €30 or more per ticket. It’s not cheap, but it’s also not as expensive as Disney (if you consider them to be comparable experiences.)
Families should also factor in food, which is themed for the period and location of the park. You’ll find rotisserie meats, rustic stews, and pastries served in medieval banquet halls. Reports indicate that meals are “interactive” and “participatory”, I’d imagine something like Medieval Times. They sell food packages along with the tickets.
I priced out a two-day visit (in my experience this was the only way to get the Cinéscénie to ticket) and it was really pricey but I included the on-site resort.
Final Boarding Thoughts
I’ve been to Disney parks in Anaheim, Hong Kong, and we are annual pass holders in Orlando. Puy Du Fou, as charming as it is, won’t replace that for me or many other theme park fans. However, it looks to be something alluring, out of the ordinary, and authentic. It’s out of the way, a little expensive, and yet maybe that adds to the experience of it all. If nothing else, it’s the most surprising thing I have come across this year.
What do you think?